Prague's rooftops: the City of a Hundred Spires from above
A capital born on the banks of the Vltava
The capital and largest city of the Czech Republic, Prague is home to nearly 1.4 million people. Built on both banks of the Vltava, in the heart of Bohemia, it was the capital of the Kingdom of Bohemia, then of the Holy Roman Empire in the 14th century under Charles IV, before becoming the capital of Czechoslovakia in 1918. The city lived through the Prague Spring in 1968 and the Velvet Revolution in 1989, and its historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992.
It is nicknamed the “City of a Hundred Spires”: from Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral, which dominate Hradčany hill, to the towers of Týn Church on Old Town Square, by way of Charles Bridge, every style sits side by side, from Gothic and Baroque to Art Nouveau, Cubism and contemporary architecture.
Why head up high
Prague reads best from above: the sea of red roofs in Malá Strana, the bends of the Vltava and its bridges, the hills of Petřín and Vítkov, and spires, cupolas and bell towers everywhere you look. The city's rooftops often occupy the top floors of hotels set in old townhouses, modern buildings or landmark properties. Many combine a glazed room open all year round with a terrace that comes fully into its own from late spring to early autumn.
Where to enjoy the view in Prague
On Old Town Square and around Josefov
On the 5th floor of the U Prince hotel, Terasa U Prince faces the Astronomical Clock and the towers of Týn Church: it is one of the most famous views in the city, available from breakfast to last orders thanks to a partly covered, heated terrace. A few streets further north, at the end of elegant Pařížská street, the Fairmont Golden Prague houses on its top floor the Zlatá Praha restaurant, which reinterprets Czech cuisine overlooking the roofs of the Old Town, and, in summer, The Rooftop Terrace, which looks out towards Letná Park.
In the New Town
On Wenceslas Square, the Pytloun Sky Bar occupies the roof of a boutique hotel, with a lounge terrace facing the castle and the Franciscan Garden. Close by, on Národní avenue, Fly Vista crowns the Máj department store: a restaurant on the 8th floor, a terrace and viewing deck on the 9th, 360° views and DJ nights that run late into the night. On the banks of the Vltava, the Glass Bar sits at the top of the Dancing House, the building by Vlado Milunić and Frank Gehry, with views of the castle and the National Theatre at prices that remain gentle.
In Malá Strana, below the castle
On the left bank, two fine-dining restaurants share the city's most beautiful rooftops. On the top floor of the U Zlaté studně hotel, just below the castle walls, Terasa U Zlaté studně pairs cuisine awarded three toques by Gault & Millau with two terraces overlooking the City of a Hundred Spires. A little further down, on the roof of the Aria Hotel, CODA restaurant sets its tables facing the dome of St Nicholas Church, the castle and Petřín Tower.
In Karlín and Žižkov: a sky bar and a tower
On the 9th floor of the Hilton Prague, on the Karlín side, Cloud 9 bills itself as the city's first true sky bar: signature cocktails, Creole and Asian fusion cuisine and two terraces above the Vltava. To the east, the Žižkov Television Tower, the tallest structure in Prague, houses Oblaca at 66 metres, a restaurant awarded three Golden Lions and a cocktail bar: there is no terrace here, but an exceptional panorama behind large picture windows.
Cocktails, food and atmosphere
Prices that are often gentle
Prices are shown in Czech crowns (Kč). At laid-back spots such as the Glass Bar, Terasa U Prince, Fly Vista or the bar at Oblaca, a cocktail often costs between 210 and 290 Kč. At Cloud 9, signature cocktails cost between 320 and 440 Kč. On the fine-dining side, the tasting menus at CODA and Terasa U Zlaté studně sit at the top end, while Fly Vista and the Pytloun Sky Bar also serve à la carte dishes, from breakfast to dinner.
A rooftop for every occasion
As a couple, with friends or for a special occasion
For a dinner for two, the terraces of Malá Strana, Zlatá Praha or Oblaca at sunset make a strong impression. With friends, the DJ nights at Fly Vista and Cloud 9 keep the evening going, while the Glass Bar is perfect for a relaxed drink facing the castle. For a first encounter with the city, nothing beats the view from Terasa U Prince over Old Town Square.
Getting around easily
The centre is easy to explore on foot, and three metro lines (A, B and C) plus a dense tram network serve the city. Staroměstská and Malostranská stations (line A) take you to the Old Town and Malá Strana, Národní třída and Můstek (line B) to the New Town, Florenc (lines B and C) to the Hilton, and Jiřího z Poděbrad (line A) to the Žižkov Tower.
Tips for making the most of Prague's rooftops
Season, booking and dress code
Open-air terraces are at their liveliest from May to September, and some, such as The Rooftop Terrace at the Fairmont, close out of season; the glazed rooms, however, stay open all year round. Tables with a view go quickly at sunset: book ahead, especially at Terasa U Prince, Terasa U Zlaté studně and Cloud 9. Finally, several venues ask for smart dress, such as Zlatá Praha or Oblaca, and some viewing decks, such as the one at Fly Vista, charge an entrance fee.
Photo : A.Savin / Wikimedia Commons, FAL