Rooftops in Naples: the bay and Vesuvius seen from above
A Greek city facing the volcano
Capital of Campania and Italy's third-largest city by population, after Rome and Milan, Naples has just over 900,000 inhabitants. Its history begins in the 8th century BC, when Greeks from Cumae founded Parthenope on the Pizzofalcone hill, before the city was refounded under the name Neapolis. Capital of a kingdom for more than six centuries, it has kept a vast historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.
To the east, Vesuvius towers over the bay from its height of 1,281 metres. It was Vesuvius that buried Pompeii and Herculaneum in AD 79, and its last eruption dates back to 1944.
Castles, domes and a sea horizon
Seen from above, Naples reveals a mosaic of roofs and domes rising in tiers from the port up to the Vomero. Out at sea, the Castel dell'Ovo occupies the islet of Megaride, where the first Greek colonists had landed. On the hill, the Castel Sant'Elmo, completed in 1329, and the Certosa di San Martino watch over the city. Below, the seafront, Via Caracciolo and then Via Partenope, runs along the bay as far as Santa Lucia.
Where to rise above it all in Naples
The lungomare: facing the Castel dell'Ovo
On Via Partenope, grand hotels stand facing the Castel dell'Ovo. On the tenth floor of the Grand Hotel Vesuvio, the Sky Lounge serves its cocktails on a glass-fronted terrace, with Capri on the horizon; one floor below, the Caruso Roof Garden is home to the hotel's gourmet restaurant.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele: a balcony over Chiaia
Laid out along the hillside from 1853 onwards, Corso Vittorio Emanuele crosses Chiaia, overlooking the roofs and the sea. At number 135, the Grand Hotel Parker's brings together the Bidder Terrace, on the sixth floor, and the restaurant George, which holds two stars in the Michelin Guide; in summer, its seventh-floor roof also opens to visitors. Right next door, at number 133, The NIQ Bar occupies the top of the de Bonart Naples, formerly The Britannique, with a glass-enclosed lounge and an open-air terrace. Further east, above the Quartieri Spagnoli, the Hotel San Francesco al Monte, housed in a former monastery, opens La Terrazza dei Barbanti to all, facing Vesuvius and the port.
Posillipo: the sea at sunset
To the west, the Posillipo hill looks out to the open sea. On Via Alessandro Manzoni, Riserva Rooftop brings together a restaurant, a cocktail bar and a second terrace, the Sky Lounge Martini, all facing the sea and the setting sun.
Food and cocktails up high
Neapolitan cuisine, the grill and Michelin-starred tables
On the rooftops of Naples, the food stays true to Campania: street food reinvented as bite-sized morsels at the Bidder Terrace, tradition reinterpreted at La Terrazza dei Barbanti, contemporary Neapolitan cuisine at the Caruso Roof Garden and at George. Riserva takes diners on a journey through the regions of Italy and focuses on aged meats cooked over embers.
Spritz, mixology and piano bar
When it comes to drinks, spritzes and mixologists' creations share the menus: spritzes inspired by the Muses at the Bidder Bar, “gourmet mixology” at Riserva. On the terraces of the grand hotels, expect to pay more than €20 for a cocktail: around €22 to €24 at the Parker's and €25 at the Sky Lounge. The atmosphere ranges from the piano bar at the San Francesco al Monte to the Saturday DJ set on the roof of the de Bonart Naples.
A rooftop for every occasion
As a couple or with friends
For a romantic tête-à-tête, the Caruso Roof Garden or George offer an intimate setting facing the illuminated bay. With friends, Riserva, open late into the night, or the armchairs of the NIQ Bar are better suited to drinks that go on and on.
At the weekend or during the day
At Saturday lunchtime, the NIQ Bar serves brunch on the rooftop. During the day, the Sky Lounge offers coffee and light lunches, and from mid-May to the end of September, Il Vigneto, at the San Francesco al Monte, serves lunch under the pergolas of the roof garden.
Getting around easily
The hotels on the lungomare can be reached on foot from Piazza del Plebiscito. On Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the funiculars are invaluable allies: the Chiaia funicular stops near the Parker's and the de Bonart, the Montesanto and Centrale funiculars near the San Francesco al Monte, which is also served by the C16 bus. For Riserva, which is further out, a taxi remains the simplest option.
Tips for enjoying the rooftops of Naples
Choosing the right season and time
Most venues stay open all year round, often with a glass-enclosed room for rainy days, but their open-air spaces come alive mainly from May to September: this is the case for the Parker's roof, the San Francesco al Monte's roof garden and the NIQ Bar's terrace. The Sky Lounge depends on the weather and may close for a private event. For sunset, arrive in the early evening, book when possible and check opening hours, which change with the seasons.
Photo : Wolfgang Moroder / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0