Rooftops in Tokyo: from Shinjuku to the Skytree, the city seen from above
A megacity born of Edo
The capital of Japan, Tokyo has more than 14 million inhabitants in its metropolis, including nearly 10 million in its 23 special wards, the historic and economic heart of the city. Originally a simple fishing village, Edo became the seat of the Tokugawa shoguns' government at the beginning of the 17th century, then took the name of Tokyo, “the Eastern capital”, in 1868, when the emperor moved into the former castle, which became the Imperial Palace. Devastated by the earthquake of 1923, then by the bombings of the Second World War, the city rebuilt itself each time.
Each district has its own face: the skyscrapers of Shinjuku, the buzz of Shibuya, the embassies of Minato, the Imperial Palace in Chiyoda, the department stores of Ginza and the Sensō-ji temple in Asakusa, not far from the Tokyo Skytree, 634 metres high.
A vertical city, to enjoy all year round
The view is mostly enjoyed from behind the picture windows of the grand hotels, between the 33rd and the 52nd floor, open all year round. Open-air terraces, rarer, make the most of spring and autumn, and some close in winter. Summer is hot and very humid, with a rainy season from early June to mid-July.
Where to get up high in Tokyo
Shinjuku and Shibuya
On the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt, the New York Bar combines live jazz every evening with a panorama over the towers of Nishi-Shinjuku. In Shibuya, CÉ LA VI Tokyo occupies the top two floors of Shibuya Fukuras, with open-air terraces above the station, while the Bellovisto, on the 40th and top floor of the Cerulean Tower, looks out over the skyscrapers of Shinjuku. Higher still, every year from late April to late December, The Roof Shibuya Sky sets up an open-air bar on the roof of the Shibuya Sky observation deck, accessible with the entrance ticket.
Toranomon and Tokyo Tower
At the top of the Toranomon Hills Mori Tower, the Rooftop Bar of the Andaz Tokyo opens onto Tokyo Bay and the Rainbow Bridge from the 52nd floor, with a semi-open terrace. Close by, the Starlight occupies the 41st and top floor of the Prestige Tower of the Okura Tokyo. In Shiba-kōen, the Stellar Garden, on the 33rd floor of the Prince Park Tower Tokyo, faces Tokyo Tower, so close that it seems to fill the windows.
Around the Imperial Palace and Tokyo Station
In the business district of Otemachi, between Tokyo Station and the gardens of the Imperial Palace, The Lounge by Aman serves afternoon tea and cocktails made with Japanese spirits on the 33rd floor, facing the greenery of the imperial gardens, and the open-air terrace of Pigneto, on the 39th floor of the Four Seasons, is open from spring to the end of October. In Nihonbashi, the Mandarin Bar reinvents the classics on the 37th floor of the Mandarin Oriental, and on the Yaesu side, The Bvlgari Bar extends its lounge with a garden terrace on the 45th floor.
Ginza, Asakusa and the Skytree
In Ginza, The Roof, on the roof of the Tokyo EDITION, Ginza, is an open-air hanging garden, open from spring to mid-November. In Asakusa, R Restaurant & Bar, on the 13th floor of the Gate Hotel Kaminarimon, looks out at the Skytree from its terrace. And in the Skytree itself, at 345 metres, the Sky Restaurant 634 serves French cuisine with a touch of Japanese flavours, by reservation and with the observation deck ticket.
Cocktails, whiskies and prices
Upmarket hotel bars
All prices are given in yen. A cocktail usually costs from ¥2,500 to ¥3,000, from the Bellovisto to the Starlight, and up to ¥3,800 at the Lounge by Aman; on the roof of Shibuya Sky, drinks start at around ¥1,000, entrance ticket extra. Japanese whiskies, sakes and cocktails with yuzu or green tea fill the menus.
Service and cover charges
Many hotel bars add a 15% service charge, and some apply a cover charge or a seat surcharge in the evening, such as the New York Bar from 6.30pm or the Bellovisto at its tables after 7pm.
A rooftop for every occasion
For two, with friends or for afternoon tea
For a romantic evening, the Starlight, the Mandarin Bar or the Sky Restaurant 634 make an impression. With friends, the terraces of CÉ LA VI, The Roof or Shibuya Sky make the evening last. For afternoon tea with a view, think of The Lounge by Aman or the Stellar Garden.
Getting around easily
The metro serves all these addresses: Shibuya for CÉ LA VI and the Bellovisto, Toranomon Hills (Hibiya line) for the Andaz and the Okura, Otemachi for the Aman and the Four Seasons, Asakusa for the Gate Hotel, Oshiage for the Skytree.
Tips for making the most of Tokyo's rooftops
Bookings, dress code and minimum age
Book when possible for a table by the windows at sunset; the New York Bar, however, does not take reservations. Smart casual dress is often required, and alcohol is only served to those aged 20 and over. Open-air terraces close in bad weather: it is best to check before heading up.
Photo : David Kernan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0